January 14, 2004

Bada-bada bada-bada, Bat Cave!

Phang-Nga, Thailand

After a few days swimming and snorkelling in the amazing blue-green waters of Ko Lanta and Ko Phi Phi I found myself with some time to kill in the town of Phang-Nga. I had heard of a good forest reserve nearby with a decent short trek and decided to check it out.

The only option to get out there was by motor-scooter. I have never ridden one before but that seemed no impediment to hiring one from a local hotel. A quick ride up and down the lobby was enough to convince them of my skill and I was soon bumping out the door, plastic helmet balancing on my head, and jerking down the road as I come to terms with the accelerator and brake being on the same hand. Realising I was going the wrong way I turned around and sailed confidently back past the hotel, waving maniacally like something out of Easy Rider meets Gilligan's Island.

The forest was well worth the trip and I took a path that followed a stream through the deep vegetation. A number of caverns penetrated the limestone walls on either side but it was the bat cave at the end that I was interested in.

After an hour or so I came to the entrance and found a large opening with limestone flows, and tall stalagmites. I could see in the gloom at the back of the chamber a small path leading on. I approached with my torch and could see that it split in to two levels. A rough bamboo ladder climbed to the upper level which continued further on, past the reach of my torch.

After a short while the path opened out into a small chamber, and to it's right a larger room. I headed to the second chamber, the sound of bat cries growing ever louder. I passed the torch around the chamber but it barely reached the far walls or ceiling. Towards the right was a large opening to yet another chamber. The cacophony of bats increased in that direction.

The light from my torch was beginning to dim as I walked down the slope to the next room. I found myself on a narrow ledge next to a wide and deep pit. I couldn't see the bottom. Beside me a thick stalagmite climbed high to the ceiling above, where hundreds of bats clearly roosted, though my torch could only just reach them.

I headed back to the last chamber and then noticed a small gap leading to another chamber higher up on the far side. The ascent to the gap was a little tricky. I knew that if anything happened there would be no help. I eventually found a route that seemed safe and so climbed on, finding myself standing in the largest chamber of all. I couldn't see the ceiling or far walls at all. As I walked around I saw high up a small entrance to yet another chamber. It seemed every bit as large but this time discretion would win out. My light was continuing to dim and it was time to head back.

I scrambled back down the slope to the central large chamber, kicking a rock as I went. It bounced a few times down the slope then in to the lower chamber, bouncing on the edge of the pit before falling in. It was several seconds before I heard it hit the bottom. I edged cautiously to the right to put myself out of direct line of the same path.

As the light dimmed more I returned to the smaller chamber and back down the path before finally returning to the entrance and daylight. Relieved to have made it safely but exhilarated for the adventure.

Posted by David at January 14, 2004 12:35 AM