February 28, 2004

At least the chickens look happy

Battambang, Cambodia

My destination today was Phnom Penh. I was too late for the bus so I headed out on a moto to the pickup truck and share taxi lot. I was immediately offered a taxi by myself for $14 but instead opted for the outside of the pickup for $2.

It was already pretty full as I climbed on-board, under the big umbrella, at about midday but I'd forgotten the Asian philosophy of "there's no such thing as full". It was not under nearly 1pm before the umbrella was whisked away and we pulled out. At that stage the little Toyota Hilux had 32 people in the back, along with all the luggage and two chickens. There were a further eight or nine in the dual cab in front. In back there were 14 people sitting on the edge, 6 in the middle, 5 on the roof of the cab, and 7 on the lowered tailgate (along with my backpack). The only concession to the human cargo was a piece of 2x4 across the back. Other than that it was strictly as it rolls off the assembly line. Luckily an extra piece of one inch tubing runs around the outside where I was, normally to secure cargo but in this case it definitely improved the comfort of sitting on the edge.

We head off down the road, jammed in so tight you can't move. Hands were on neighbour's shoulders, elbows on thighs, knees in groins. If I got any closer to the guy next to me we'd have to get married.

After a time my legs start to go numb. I have to do something so I decide to stand up. A little precarious with my daypack on my back but my colleagues helpfully hold me a little to stop me toppling over.

Back down on the edge and my legs are going numb again. This time I'm so jammed I'm not sure from looking which leg is mine.

The whole experience is strangely enjoyable though. When the discomfort of one position becomes too much only a slight movement is required (or possible) to bring relief. An amazingly nice sensation when it happens. Somewhat akin to jumping in to a cool pool after a few hours in the hot sun.

The road is mostly sealed but there are still some dirt stretches. We stop for lunch at a roadside restaurant. Everyone jumps out and heads for the large washbasin out back, to wash off the dust.

Night has fallen as we reach Phnom Penh. I join my fellow riders in drinking some strange yellow whisky through a straw from an old water bottle. Tastes okay.

We finally reach the Central Market. The end of the line for the pickup. I shake off the moto and cyclo drivers and take refuge in a local cafe. One young kid there speaks some english and we talk about football. He tries to teach me how to say "coffee with milk". His mother and sister almost fall off their chairs with laughter at my attempts. Perhaps it's my look of intense concentration.

I finally move on and, after rejecting a couple of cell-like rooms for $3, settle on a quite nice place for $7. It even has hot water which I immediately turn off. As I step under the cold water rivers of dust flow from my hair.

After an extra-long shower I collapse in to bed. Having had, in the end, quite a remarkable day.

Posted by David at February 28, 2004 01:29 AM